Spectacular rooftop views from La Merced Church in Antigua
La Merced Church, a favorite in Antigua, recently opened its rooftop to the public, offering some of the best views in the city. Access is through the Monastery—called a convento in Spanish—located to the left of the church. It is open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Admission is Q10 for nationals and Q35 for foreigners.
The Order of Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes is one of the oldest in Guatemala, having arrived at the previous capital in 1536. After relocating in 1543, the new church eventually held one of the finest art collections in the country, with the main altar gilded in 1704. It also housed the venerated image of Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes, the patroness of the capital. Over the centuries, the monastery and church were rebuilt and repaired. The current church was rebuilt by Guatemalan architect Juan de Dios Estrada and completed in 1767, but it was damaged by earthquakes in late 1773. The monastery—featuring one of the largest fountains in Latin America—suffered the most and was left in ruins when the Order moved to Guatemala City, taking the original art to the new capital.
Throughout the 19th century, the monastery was used as a quarry to supply building materials for San Felipe de Jesús Church. Between 1850 and 1855, the magnificent church was repaired and has been open to the faithful ever since. The church façade, with its massive bell towers, 15-foot-thick walls, and small windows, is an excellent example of earthquake-resistant architecture. The exterior plaster decoration—ataurique—is exquisite. Sixteen large ceramic lions, made locally, are distributed around the base of the exterior dome, adding a distinctive touch.
Some of the most incredible processions on Palm Sunday and Good Friday depart from La Merced Church. The Hermandad (brotherhood) that organizes these is one of the largest in the country and has its meeting areas in the monastery. The extraordinary Jesus of Nazareth sculpture was created by Guatemalan artist Alonso de la Paz in 1650. It is one of the most remarkable and venerated sculptures in the country. Carved from cedar, covered with plaster, paint, and varnish, and featuring glass eyes and real hair, it is a masterpiece of detail. According to conservation experts at the Louvre Museum in Paris, Guatemala possesses the finest Spanish colonial sculpture.
A visit to the church and the rooftop is a new plus in Antigua!
Written by Elizabeth Bell
Photos by Luis Noreiga and Scott Stanton
