“The Legion of the 24 Devils: A Tale of Faith, Fire, and Redemption”
Every December, in the streets of Ciudad Vieja, Sacatepéquez, a powerful performance unfolds. Known as La Legión de los 24 Diablos, this traditional Danza-Drama combines dance, theater, and faith into one of the most unique cultural expressions I’ve ever photographed.
The Legion of the 24 Devils happens annually from December 8th to 15th, honoring the Virgin of Conception, affectionately called La Chapetona. What drew me in was not just the colors or movement, but the deep existential and spiritual tension in the story. Twenty of the twenty-four characters are devils. The remaining four—Death, the Soul, the Angel, and a mischievous monkey—complete the cast. Together, they bring to life a tale of rebellion, temptation, and redemption.
On December 8th, the first dance takes place in front of the church’s atrium, right after a vibrant burst of fireworks. From the 9th to the 15th, performances continue in the afternoons and evenings. Each one lasts nearly three hours, blending movement with spoken verse—called parlamentos. These speeches are more than just lines. They’re evangelical poems full of biblical, moral, and philosophical meaning. The Devil, once known as Luzbel, reveals his torment and hatred for humanity after being cast out of heaven. Through my lens, I try to capture not just the masks or the costumes, but the raw human emotion in the
performers—pride, sorrow, rage, hope. There’s something profoundly timeless about it. Though the origin of the dance dates back to the mid-1800s, its message still speaks to us today: temptation is everywhere, and redemption is possible.
Declared Cultural Heritage in 2005 by the Ministry of Culture and Sports, La Legión reminds me of why I started photographing traditions in the first place. They are stories in motion—of faith, identity, and memory.
Ciudad Vieja may be quieter than Antigua, but during these December nights, its streets glow with fire, rhythm, and soul. For anyone passionate about photography, culture, or spirituality, this dance is not to be missed. I left transformed—and with a memory card full of questions and wonder.
Written by Luis F. Noriega and Giovanni Martini
Photos by Luis Noriega
If you’re lucky to be in Antigua when The Legion of the 24 Devils is taking place, for the more adventurous, going by bus is the most affordable way to go. Tuk tuks are always an option, but it’s important to negotiate the price before getting in one. Or consider Columbus Travel or Trips and Tips, advertisers in the magazine, who can arrange a personalised itinerary.
